🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the family totally shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.